Singapore: a step into the strange

This place is ripe for a surreal story or movie a la Ghibli's Spirited Away. It is Haw Par Villa - a 'theme park' of Chinese religious parables and folklore, built in the 1930's. It was created by the wealthy Aw family that makes Tiger Balm, to promote good values to society, and was a 'Disneyland' of its time.

The attraction has undergone several name changes during its lifetime, including Tiger Balm Gardens and Haw Par Villa Dragon World. It seems things began to decline in 1988 when the site was donated to the Singapore Tourism Board and an entrance fee was introduced. Admission is now free again.

The park is not small, and comprises a myriad of dioramas using often life-size plaster figurines to depict tales from Chinese folklore. There are sections such as: the Ten Courts of Hell; The Pond of Legacy (an area of mermaids and water creatures, designed in plan to the Chinese character for 'Aw'); a section illustrating tales of virtue, friendship and loyalty; some international stuff; and a whole ton of other myths. The path visitors follow itself is shaped like a dragon, apparently.

Part of the Pond of Legacy display

When I say it was a 'Disneyland' I am actually surprised that it was popular 'family' fun: quite a few dioramas depict either highly gory scenes of torture, or slightly sexy stuff. I have several Singaporean friends who dislike this place as it gave them nightmares as children - and I am not surprised! In fact both the content and concept of Haw Par Villa could be an acquired taste for adults.

But I have to say I really loved this place! Today the park stands in a partially-derelict state, but in my opinion it is completely worth a visit for:

a) The sheer barking-ness of it
I don't think I've ever visited somewhere with more unselfconsciously bizarre exhibits! It's not trying to be bonkers, it just is. Of course my knowledge of Chinese mythology is pretty limited - so to a Westerner a lot of the vignettes will seem even more puzzling. There were a few scenes I recognised from watching the 'Monkey' TV series with Pigsy, Tripitaka and co. as a child in England. The rest - who knows?

(There are some descriptions in Chinese and English, btw, but it was raining when I visited, so I didn't read them all!)

b) The faded old-world grandeur
To me, the flaking paint and run-down aspects of this place made it all the more charming and authentic. (Another typical British viewpoint!) There were flavours to me of the old Lidos in London - but on an epic scale and in Asian style. You can get a strong feel for families in the 30s and 40s taking a day out in this colourful and new place. Plus the 'modern' vignettes depict retro scenes of Singapore back in the day!

An added bonus of its unpopularity is that it is practically empty. No queues, no giant packs of screaming kids - just you and this strange world of figurines :)

c) The fact it surely must be completely unique.

This place now falls between those two stools of 'charming disrepair / blissful quietness' and possibly 'going to close down due to lack of visitors'. Some areas were closed - presumeably for repairs?? And the only renovation being done on my visit was one old geezer re-painting scenes with loving care.

Having said this, a new MRT stop opened last year just for Haw Par Villa. So perhaps there will be more interested, charmed and baffled visitors in the future?

MORE PIX SOON (when I've sorted this upload problem out!)

Haw Par Villa, 262 Pasir Panjang Road, Singapore 118628
MRT: Haw Par Villa (Circle Line)