Matcha Addict - Jenki, London

Oh my! 

Jenki is a hipster 'matcha bar' in London's touristy Spitalfields Market. But it's one of maybe three (?) matcha outlets in the entire city, so I felt I had to give it a go. 

I excitedly ordered an iced matcha latte, which cost me £4. (S$8 / US$5)

Sadly the go-to (again!) for this was soy or oat milk (which are trendy in the UK) and I had to specify cow's milk. But OK.

The Verdict: It tastes just like iced milk! I could not detect any matcha at all in this drink and had to add sugar just to get some flavour from it. I mean it looks great. Nice colour green (usually a sign of quality) and gradient. Plus it sounded great on the website. But I have no idea why people would purchase this stuff, when you can have a very nice cup of milk and ice at home! 

Tbh a spectacular case of style over substance (plus what I find a depressing acceptance by Europeans for inauthentic Japanese things as the 'real deal'!) Am not surprised this place was full (not of Asians!) given its design and location. But really, avoid and take your cash elsewhere!

 

 

Jenki: https://www.jenki.co.uk/

Matcha Addict - DIY Matcha Latte in London!

In an endless quest to get my fix of the excellent Green, I purchased this affordable matcha powder in an Asian food store in London. 

Two things to note here: 

1) There are different grades of matcha powder, ranging from high-end (usually bright green) delicious, to low-end (often a sludgier brown) which might be more suited for cooking. Yes matcha biscuits, pastries, puddings, cakes and all sorts exist too! Generally you get what you pay for.

2) A lot of 'Japanese' and 'Korean' things sold in the UK are actually Chinese. This applies to almost everything, including restaurants. And most times UK people don't know the difference. This especially applies if the Asian product is affordable or on the high street. 

You can buy reasonably authentic matcha powder in London. But it will cost you! Usually you're looking at around £8-10 for 100g. Which I haven't been able to justify budget-wise yet, especially as I'm not very expert at making the tea myself. So when I saw this on sale for £1.98 it seemed stupid not to try it. 

It's Chinese. And I was not expecting great quality for the price! 

The powder is a sludgy olive green. Low grade! (And does resemble green paint pigment, which I hope it's not.) And the flavour is very bitter, without creaminess. It took me several tries to get the balance of milk, powder, sugar, water optimised for a latte. And I don't have a fancy frother or whisk. But then it was perfectly drinkable in small doses! I say small doses because more than 1 cup gave me headaches, as coffee would. (High quality matcha does not.) Or could it be the paint powder aspect kicking in...?

The verdict: really not bad. Probably meant for cooking, not drinking. But a reasonable 1 cup/day fix if you're desperate - for a very good price. And tbh I suspect this is what many London cafes use when they serve matcha. 

Not sure I'd buy it again because of the headache factor, but it gave me a good chance to experiment with DIY matcha lattes. I might lash out on a better quality, Japanese, powder now I know how. It would still be considerably cheaper than the whopping prices London cafes charge for matcha drinks!

 

Looks a little more minty here than irl!

Matcha Addict - Japan House, London

Well, I've been generally uninspired living in London (over a pandemic) so not been blogging about cultural things much. 

As things vaguely reopen here, I have managed to pop out and try occasional matcha drinks, though. So here to follow is a possible slew of drink reviews! 

First up is first-drunk. The hot matcha latte from London's (overrated) Japan House. I visited for the first time, to see an exhibition, and maybe get some authentic Japanese inspo in Europe. The space is basically an expensively-priced, sparse, retail outlet of Japanese things for tourists, and some un-cosy seating. Even London's Japan Centre is exciting by comparison! (And it's not exciting.) Plus the JH exhibition was meh. But they DO have a drinks bar serving matcha and occasional Japanese sweets.

This mid-sized latte came in at around £4 (S$8 / US$5) No pretentious 'coconut rice milk' etc mucking around, just regular cow's milk = good (I guess you can ask for alternatives if you're vegan, lactose intolerant blah blah). 

The verdict: Drinkable. Tastes like decent matcha as-made-in-the-UK (not creamy bitter like the Asian offerings, but a passable tea). I wouldn't go back to pay this price for it. 

Japan House, London: https://www.japanhouselondon.uk/

 

Valentine's Day (East & West)

I'm currently in London, and February 14th looms. In the West, this is Valentine's Day. Tbh I'm not keen on pressurised commercial festivals (as they are now). Some can be upsetting for certain groups (which is only just becoming recognised now) and today, generally, they're just a gimmick for retailers to make cash. Over £1 billion (USD 1.3 billion, SGD 1.8 billion) is spent annually in the UK for Valentine's Day. So one can see the commercial savvy in pushing celebrations! But sometimes, even if you don't like the hype, these festivals can be interesting culturally, or historically. 

So here goes!

In the UK today (if we celebrate it!)
February 14th is supposedly a festival of romance. And it's symbolised by hearts, cupids, pink things, doves, chocolates, roses, and perhaps poetry. As children, it was traditional to send an anonymous card to the person (or people) we had a crush on, signing it "?" or "Your Valentine". Supposedly leaving the recipient flattered and wondering who liked them. The card might be sent in the post, or (more usual) left inside your crush's desk or locker! Of course, this also left the people who did NOT receive any cards feeling left out or slightly ridiculed. So some friends would agree to send cards to each other, just so that we had at least one, and looked like we were part of the day.

For adults, very occasionally, anonymous cards or sometimes flowers will be sent (usually from men) to a love interest on Valentine's Day. Retail pressure also suggests that existing couples should go out for overpriced meals, and buy each other expensive and unimaginative gifts! (Red roses, chocolates and things shaped like hearts...) Or just gifts, generally. Prices in restaurants, and for themed gifts rise especially. Traditionally, for heterosexual couples, it was the man's responsibility to arrange Valentine's activities and presents. Today it is increasingly either party. Or none!

How it started
Valentine's Day's origins are Christian, but the romance part is not. 

February 14th is officially the Feast of St Valentine in the church calendar*. It actually could  celebrate more than one Saint Valentine (apparently there are several Christian saints with this name!) For the UK, it usually relates to Valentine of Rome and Valentine of Terni - who were both early Christian priests, martyred in the 3rd century AD. Probably. (They might have actually been the same guy - such is the haziness of history!)

A bit is known about Valentine of Rome. It seems he was imprisoned for - among other things - presiding over marriages to prevent men going to war (at the time forbidden under Roman law - as young single men were required for fighting). It is also said that he restored the sight of a young blind girl, sending her a letter before his execution, signed 'your Valentine'. Fair enough. But not super romantic.

The lovey-dovey concept was introduced to the public over a millennium later. With the cultural / social fashion of "courtly love"**, promoted by Chaucer (famous English poet) and other artsy types in the 14th century. Although it seems there were no existing traditions, the church feast day suddenly became associated with giving flowers, cards signed 'your Valentine', and professing romantic love. These sentiments were reiterated in later art and literature. And have endured to this day. 

Some sources state that February 14th was adopted from the early (pre-Christian) Roman fertility festival of Lupercalia. This idea has some logic, and tbh, a lot of popular pagan festivals were rebranded by the early Christian church, in a kind of smart change-management exercise. But this theory for Valentine's Day has apparently now been thrown out by experts. 

In Japan today
As with several Western concepts, Japan has adopted Valentine's Day but tweaked it to its own style. The idea was first imported by a confectioner in the 1930s. And today there are two Valentine's Days in Japan - one for women, and one for men. I have never been in Japan during these festivals. But this is what I've gathered from friends and research!

February 14th is specifically for women to gift chocolates or sweets to men. And they do not all have to be romantic interests. Two types of chocolate exist for the occasion: "giri-choko" [義理チョコobligation chocolates] which are bog-standard chocolate gifts for male friends or family; and "honmei-choko" [本命チョコ real, or love chocolates] which are special or homemade, and gifted to actual partners or crushes. Also, the recipient of honmei-choko can reject the gift if he's not interested in the giver (harsh! Though it's apparently rare). In some cases, Valentine's can become very expensive for women, especially if they feel they should buy giri-choko for their whole office.

White Day, then takes place on March 14th. This was introduced in 1978 by the National Confectionery Industry Association to redress the expenses of Valentine's Day for women - and also to make more money for the industry, natch! This is when men give gifts to women. Usually returning the favour of giri-choko, or upping the honmei-choko to a bigger or better gift (I guess if the romantic feelings are reciprocated!) 

Openly gay singles and couples can apparently choose which day they wish to gift any honmei-choko, though it seems being openly gay in Japan is less common than it is in the West.

Although it is modern and entirely industry-invented, there is a little more sense to the Japanese system! Depending on the situation, there is a chance that an open honmei-choko gift could lead to actual chances of romance a month later, or on the day. The anonymous British card-giving is sort of useless. Because while it protects the secret sender from embarrassment or rejection, nothing practical can really come of it!

As in the West, not everybody in Japan thinks Valentine's and/or White Day is a great idea, and not everybody celebrates them. But it is still a big, national deal, which hugely boosts the revenues of retailers and confectioners!

* Some, but not all, Christian churches recognise the Feast of St Valentine. As I've mentioned before, there are MANY different kinds of Christianity, and variations for their festivals and other things.

** Courtly love was not a grunge star, but a literary concept started in France, and seen in the works of Chaucer and others. It was designed to entertain the medieval nobility, and emphasised stories of (lovesick) gentlemen wooing ladies in a very chivalrous way. Ultimately, Valentine's is an equivalent of future generations taking the sentiments of the Hollywood romcom seriously, and carrying them out as an annual tradition, attached bogusly to a religious feast!

Photos: part of this year's Valentine's display in London's famous Fortnum & Mason; gifts for him, for her, for anyone! :) 

Also on this blog:

Stuff Valentine's. Here's a much better Western festival to celebrate this month

Christianity (slightly) Defined...

 

After Asia, and the Algerian Coffee Stores

During this past year in APAC, I travelled a fair amount between Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. And each time I returned to Singapore (after perhaps only a couple of months' break) there would be some fairly key changes. Malls would have completed and launched; shiny new stations on the MRT lines opened; condominiums gone up; large new stores would have taken a foothold. 

I've come back to London after seven years, and not much has changed. There has been some change - which Londoners seem to perceive as quite radical! But compared with the pace of the places I lived in in Asia, it's kinda slow. 

There are reasons for this of course: London has been 'developed' for many centuries, the infrastructure in London's centre is antique, often architecturally protected, and difficult to change.  So it's not following a new masterplan like Singapore can. But there are also cultural differences, I think, in which UK people value things which are old. Perhaps over convenience or practicality. And there is a little suspicion of the new, which doesn't exist in APAC.

For tourists, I suppose this also gives the UK some of its appeal: it's historical with its own unique thing going on. 

For me, it has cut both ways. I have both struggled with the non-modernity of many systems here (tech, transport etc etc) and rather enjoyed the interesting old places with character. And here is one of them: the Algerian Coffee Stores shop, on Old Compton Street. 

This is not a tourist attraction, but just an old place offering decent service for people interested in coffee and making it. I went in to find a replacement washer for a friend's coffee percolator. And the chap there spent a good 20 minutes searching and trying items to best fit the pot. The cost of the washer: £1.10! (About SGD2/USD1.50) It wasn't about the money, but getting it right, so that good coffee could be made! And this is a kind of old-fashioned, quality, service which I like. 

Also, when you go in, you are greeted with an excellent whiff of coffee / tea / chocolate. And treated to the visuals of shelves packed with all kinds of exotic coffee beans, confections and apparatus.

I guess what, in modern business terms, might be lost in time (while people take care to look after customers) is perhaps compensated for by brand and uniqueness. And, I'd guess, repeat custom throughout generations? This shop has been handling coffee in London for over 130 years. I think you can buy an affordable espresso or latte in there now, too. 

Anyway, if you ARE a tourist in London, you could do worse than popping in to this place to purchase an interesting roast, or some good chocolate. :)

Link:  Algerian Coffee Stores



Also on this blog:

Coffee making

Don Don Donki

This opened recently in Singapore, and it seems caused quite a stir. Partly because it was handy, cheap and from (fashionable) Japan. And partly because there were sex-toys openly on sale. According to the media. I don't think they are on sale now.

Don Don Donki is a price-friendly Japanese supermarket. Selling mostly Japanese things (it seems from quite a wide range of products!) And, I think, like its contemporary (the wonderful, relatively sex-free) Daiso, probably set to be hugely popular across SE Asia.

As for the toy debacle, I didn't see them personally (and was overseas when the news controversy broke!) so I can't say how indiscreet they were. But apparently they were portable and for men. And tbf to Singapore, subtle Durex toys are on sale across the nation state's 7-Elevens and pharmacies; it's not hyper-prudish. So was the indecorous story deliberate PR for the Don Don Donki Singapore launch? This seems less likely in conservative Asia. But the store has been a major hit with Singaporeans either way.

I finally got to visit this month. And it was quite nice. Packed to the rafters with decent quality, affordable Japanese things (groceries, pharma etc in this branch). Of course most packaging is in Japanese, so there's an air of mystery for non-readers. But we purchased some ice-cream items which turned out to be ridiculously yummy - hoorah!

In fact this chain - named Don Kihōte (ドン・キホーテ) though apparently known as 'Donki' there - is Japan's largest grocer. It was rebranded Don Don Donki for Singapore, the phrase taken from the store's own theme song "Miracle Shopping" which was even released as a single in Japan. There are some other Donki brands under the (it seems huge) Japanese umbrella owner, the Don Quijote Group. The original chain (initially called Just Co) has been around in Japan since 1980.

Anyway, here's a video I took in the Singapore store - which we first rummaged around quite late at night, as this supermarket is open 24 hours.

Something 'mikan' (tangerine) melty, mild orange-choc segments filled with ice-cream. Lux.

Matcha (green tea) Mini Milks. Bloomin' yum.

Also on this blog:
Donkey surprise! And the UK case of the bogus burger..

And in your mall this afternoon...

How to BOGOF in SE Asia

FYI, I recently went for cocktails with a friend in Singapore. And obviously we picked a bar with a deal on. In this case, the deal was "1 for 1 Cocktails". Which sounds like a normal sale to me: you get one when you pay for one. But in Singapore, it actually means you get TWO when you pay for one. Hmmm...

In Britain, the same deal would usually be expressed as 2 for 1. Or Buy One Get One Free (BOGOF). 

I guess maybe the Singaporean phrase implies 'like for like'? Or is a version of an ambiguous  Western one I'd never heard of: Buy One, Get One (?)

Meanwhile, over in Malaysia, the same deal is expressed by the grammatically mysterious - but actually easier to understand - BOFO: Buy One Free One. Which is reminiscent of some diplomatic trade of political prisoners. (Also  variations: Buy One Free Two; Buy Two Free One, etc, depending on how lucky you are.)  

Anyway, hope that's cleared things up for some of you global shoppers out there. Probably time to blog off. Tarrah.  

PS In the UK, the term "bog-off!" is slang meaning "very strongly GO AWAY". It should not be used if talking to a boss. And has nothing to do with bargains.

Posh COS and Yo Grandma's Pants

I just went into the clothes shop COS in Singapore and was treated to some of the snootiest staff service I've encountered in a while. Of course, the cliche is that we expect snobby staff in very high end stores like maybe McQueen or Stella McCartney. The assumption is that only the very richest of customers are welcomed in these stores, so if you appear less wealthy, staff will look down on you.

But this was COS!

And I'm from London.

COS is part of H&M. And in London, it is like the 'older sister' of H&M. It's an affordable high street store, with nicely designed, slightly minimalist, clothes. It's where the H&M shopper goes after they hit 30 and have a decent job. It is not McCartney or McQueen!

In Singapore, however, COS is situated next to the likes of Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake. And it also might be a little bit more expensive. COS in Singapore is positioned as luxury fashion. And the staff certainly believe it is! (Even though it slightly made me laugh ^^)

Brands quite often position themselves differently in markets globally. Or for a bunch of reasons, they become organically positioned differently due to local perceptions or events. And this can seem strange or amusing if you're an expat, or travelling a lot. Here are a couple more examples:

Starbucks (American)
In the UK: a ubiquitous and unremarkable coffee chain. In London, it's the one which tourists are most likely to frequent. It's OK, but not special. Good for a quick takeaway - probably not somewhere you'd choose to sit and socialise. (We prefer other chains, or independent cafes for that.) In fact in the 90s - when there was a big UK backlash against big global corporations - Starbucks was socially branded as a bad place. The ubiquitousness of it is also a bit unpopular and 'uncool' in the UK. Because uniqueness is generally more fashionable.

In Singapore: quite hip. For some reason (which might come from South Korea?*) Starbucks is apparently seen as a fairly trendy place to go or to work. And actually, the standard of service from the young students in Starbuckses in SE Asia stands out way above that in other global coffee chains. Because it's more fashionable, so the chain can pick the best staffers? Ubiquitousness is also viewed very differently in Asia - it's generally a sign that something might be good, and desirable. In Singapore, I would definitely go to Starbucks. Simply because for service it is better than many other venues.

*Apparently in certain areas of Seoul, it is (or was once) seen as quite chic to be seen or photographed walking around with a Starbucks coffee takeaway or tumbler in your hand. So maybe this sentiment has spread around the region? South Korea and Japan are fashionable in SE Asia, and often set trends. And I'd guess this was a deliberate IG campaign started by Starbucks's S Korean marketing department. Otherwise why would it be Starbucks, and not another big, global coffee chain?!

Uniqlo (Japanese)
In Japan: bog-standard utilitarian clothing store. It's where you got to get decent quality basics and thermal underwear for the winter. It is not fashionable. In British terms it's an equivalent of maybe BHS!

In the UK: quite fashionable. OK, from my limited experiences in Japan and the UK, the stock is different - with more designer collaborations etc in London. But even for basics, Uniqlo is ever so slightly trendy - it's where the art and design set might go to buy their basics and black polo-neck jumpers! (As well as thermal underwear..) Because it's Japanese. So it's a little bit different - and special/unique - from the usual basics we can buy in the UK!

In Singapore: somewhere in between the above two. Japanese things are often fashionable here, but Uniqlo is not particularly outstanding. The styles are a little more conservative than the Uniqlo clothes in London, though there are still a few nice things. But it is probably more of a family and basics store in Singapore.

M&S (British)
In the UK: trusted own-brand department store; part of our heritage! The food today is seen as quite posh and very good quality (with high prices to match!) but the clothing lines are viewed as little dull and  old-fashioned. Incidentally, M&S food halls are massive in the UK and sell all kinds of wet and dry foods. Good for clothing basics; M&S cotton (under)pants are a men's and women's staple in probably every British wardrobe (and were for our parents, and maybe also grandparents)!

In Singapore: luxury or semi-luxury store. OK it is mostly clothing items sold in SE Asia (and a small selection of dry foods). The prices are actually not far off what they are in London - but that equates to quite high cost in many SE Asian countries. (London is an expensive city!) If you compare the items in good local stores or supermarkets (as you might find in Singapore) M&S is at a much higher price point. It is a good place to go for traditional English foods as gifts, though - and if you're in Singapore and want to try British crumpets, Christmas pudding or Hot Cross Buns, it's worth the splurge! 

***

English learners: 'snooty' is a slightly informal British English term which describes a person or behaviour which is a little bit snobby or aloof, and looks down upon others. (Not to be confused with 'snotty' which means bad tempered and rude!)

Isetan's new concept in Kuala Lumpur: 'The Japan Store'

For those who haven't come across it, Isetan is a Japanese department store with branches worldwide. There used to be one in London, even (I'm not sure if there is still? I think there are plans to relaunch one there). Like its other half, Mitsukoshi, Isetan is a regular department store, but selling quality Japanese products as well as global brands. 

Click on photos for slide show

So I was quite surprised to visit the old one in Kuala Lumpur's Lot10 mall recently. This Isetan has had a major refit, and rebrand! Labelled 'The Japan Store' the new version shopping experience was a bit of a treat to walk around. Each storey of the building was named and themed, concessions were situated in artsy pods reminiscent of The Serpentine Gallery's summer pavilion commissions. There were hipster cafes, breakout and work areas. Products were arranged and curated more like an art gallery than a department store. On the top level are Japanese restaurants, and the basement food hall is now a very Japan affair, with exclusively high-end Japanese foods, eateries, drinks and liquor. It was like walking into a nicely designed store IN Tokyo. (And I have to say, after a dearth of anything affordable and fresh/unfried in KL, I was delighted to find a healthy Japan-style salad bar there too!) 

Interestingly, there is more than one Isetan in KL, and the others are still regular department stores. So this one is a specific flagship, and I would guess set up to differentiate the brand from the plethora of identikit mall anchors around the city. The Lot10 store itself is in an odd location - it sits back, on the edge of Bukit Bintang's retail strip, in what is by Asian standards an 'old' mall (generally viewed as 'less desirable' over here). A new MRT has just opened nearby-ish, but the real draw of this area seems to be the outsized, dull and flashy Pavilion Mall complex at the other end. Perhaps this is why Isetan chose to refurb this particular branch? To give people a reason to walk the extra metres for a uniquely Japanese experience - rather than just bypass Isetan entirely while heading to the flash? The other large (and far more prominent) stores in the Lot10 mall are Zara and H&M, however. Which surely pull in not-so-style-conscious youngsters with limited cash. So I don't think this ready-made footfall would be of much use to Isetan! 

My query is whether this fab new concept store actually sells anything. Or perhaps high-sales are not its primary objective?? (Can this be the case in retail? Could retail space be so cheap in KL as to support an almost pure 'branding exercise'?) The new store is beautiful and classy, but the items scarce, and pricey. It was nearly empty when I visited (on a Thursday late afternoon). Even the cafes were quiet. Japanese products and style are more respected and fashionable in SE Asia than in Europe, for example. But I'm not sure with the same groups who would also have the incomes to regularly shop at this store. Japanese expats - with both the cash and inclination to frequent it - would be an obvious market. But there is only a tiny number of them in Kuala Lumpur, especially compared to somewhere like Singapore, where there is no 'Japan Store' flagship like this. So, I'm still curious as to 'why Lot10, KL'? 

Anyway, if you're visiting KL's Bukit Bintang area, it's worth a look. 

Bags of Fun! Eco Practices East and West

OK, possibly not all that much fun... 

I've been in Malaysia recently, and noted with some pleasedness that plastic bags were in short supply. Now, some supermarkets make you pay if you want a plastic bag; and most other outlets will ask you ambiguously 'Plastic?' when you purchase an item. ('Plastic?' being typical SE Asian economy-English for 'Would you like a plastic bag for that?') The cutback is apparently a new national directive. And most of the time we indeed do not require 'plastic'. 

The UK and other countries in Europe have had more stringent practices for some years. Plastic bags - most of which are non-bio-degradable, but also bio-degradable ones - cause big problems worldwide. Improperly disposed-of, they clog drainage (I recently worked with a project in the Philippines, where this was the issue and put communities at huge risk during flood times) and have all sorts of detrimental effects on wildlife on land and in the ocean. Even when they're thrown away properly they bung up landfill, and the eventual breakdown releases polluting chemicals into the soil. In fact, even their ingredients and manufacture degrade the environment, and emit polluting chemicals. Bio-degradable bags are not much better. They still require manufacture - with sometimes even more toxic ingredients - and 'bio-degrading' can just mean they release their  pollutants faster. Some conditions and climates mean they won't break down at all. 'Bio-degradable', it seems, does not mean the same as 'eco-friendly'.
 
Of course, for consumer convenience, no bags can be pain in the arse. In the UK, you usually cannot answer 'yes' and get a plastic bag - you have to pay. Large chain supermarkets will charge you 5p (or 5 cents or equivalent) for each plastic bag if you have forgotten to keep a recyclable alternative in your own handbag. The big brand chains probably profit from this; the whole deal is certainly a better bet for them financially, regardless of whether they care for the environment or not (and I would hazard a guess that 'not' applies in many cases, though they might try to greenwash it!) But the cash savings are an incentive to make them comply. Some studies have also shown that if certain areas have bag bans, consumers are more likely to shop just outside that area, for their own convenience (though admittedly the source for one study was Plastics Today ^^). So, the directives have to be blanket, and nationwide. 

I am not a particular eco-warrior. I just grew up in a region where eco has been a big, legislated, educationally-supported, deal for some decades. I got used to carrying my backpack, or an extra tote, around in London. It wasn't 100% convenient, but everyone had to do it, so fair enough. (We pack our own groceries in UK supermarkets, btw - in Asia, cashiers often do it for you.) 

Having been in Asia for a while and learned a little more, I feel a bit more strongly. I am a keen SCUBA diver - which is something I highly recommend, especially in SE Asia, a world hotspot for fantastic marine life. But it's depressing to see bags (and plastic bottles) littering the shores. Or plastic wrapped around remote corals and other suffering marine life. Some are also mistaken for jellyfish and eaten, leading to death for the unsuspecting creature. These are improperly disposed-of bags, of course. And the entire bag-pollution problem is a complex mix of social, educational, economic and political factors which I'm not qualified to outline. But if there are a lot less bags circulating, one can only hope there is a lot less to 'mis-dispose' of too.

Meanwhile...
Next door to newly bag-free Malaysia, affluent Singapore is a very different story. I was shocked when I first moved there and discovered that you get plastic bags with everything - sometimes a double layer! - and in supermarkets, nearly every item will be bagged separately. For a modest six-item shop, for example, you could easily carry four separate plastic bags home. I spent months annoying queuing shoppers and cashiers alike, by trying to insist on one bag only. (I've since discovered that SE Asian economy-English 'No need!' is required for this too. A polite English 'It's OK, I really only need one bag for the groceries!' gets you nowhere! But it's still often an unpopular request.)

More perplexing still, most supermarket bags in Singapore are printed with something like 'Let's protect our environment!' or 'Use bags sparingly'. When the supermarkets practice the exact opposite! A trip to Fairprice or Cold Storage can start to resemble an ironic performance art piece.

So what's going on there? In general, wealthy Singapore tends to be a few steps head of its poorer neighbours, and things are also usually fairly smartly organised. (In fact, on balance, I'd often say better organised than in the UK). But I've not noticed much genuine eco-awareness there yet. There's a bit of 'lifestyle' eco-awareness - ie it's fashionable in some circles to be seen as modern and eco-aware; and corporates do clumsy 'bolt-on' CSR projects to pick up litter etc. But whether this translates into daily eco-aware routine and action, I'm not sure. Recycling at household level seems to be a fairly superficial process, and it's not widely done. I also remember being told off at my office several times, for not reboiling a full kettle each time I made coffee. Because somebody might want to reheat it and make a drink later in the day. This is considerate to potential coffee drinkers, but I'd been taught since teen years in the UK, that you should only boil as much as you need. To avoid waste (of fuel/energy). And be more environmentally positive. In Europe, boiling a full kettle for no direct purpose is viewed as hugely irresponsible!

In fact, Singapore is currently listed at 14 in the global Environmental Performance Index. It is the only Asian nation in the top 30! (Japan comes in next, at 39. Malaysia is no. 63)(And yes, the top 10 are all in Europe!) So something must be being done right at Singapore's higher levels. But day-to-day eco awareness, and certainly the misuse of plastic bags, seems to require some work. 


You can check out the 2016 EPI rankings and report here: http://epi.yale.edu/country-rankings


*FYI for English-learners, 'pleasedness' is not an official word. It is 'poetic license' as neither 'satisfaction' nor 'pleasure' had quite the correct meaning! 

And in your mall this afternoon...

Competing with the grey-robed nuns buying toiletries in The Body Shop, a posse of red-robed monks casing the crockery section in Daiso?

Clearly, Singapore is truly a 'shopping paradise for all'! (Though good choice re Daiso in my opinion; everyone needs 'Hello Tomato' plates.)

PS We don't have Daiso in Europe. And I'm not sure what I will do without it when I go back! (Apart from lobby to have it open branches there). Daiso is basically a pound / dollar store, but from Japan, and REALLY NICE QUALITY AND DESIGN. With lots of weird (and yet useful) inventions we don't have outside Japan too. Half of my home in SG has come from Daiso and long may this be the case!  

See also: And in your mall tonight.. 

Photo courtesy of http://www.burmese-buddhas.com

And in your mall tonight..

Neat, grey-robed, Buddhist nuns en masse in The Body Shop stocking up on toiletries at Novena, Singapore. 

You don't see that often in London.

Grey robes usually mean nuns from Vietnam, China, Japan or Korea, apparently. (Other countries tend to favour reds, ochre and orange).

Waikiki: the International Market Place

Waikiki's International Market Place is set to close. It's going to be torn down. This December, apparently. I'm not saying it is the most beautiful place on earth. It is basically an open air shopping area with local vendors selling touristy tat, a bit like London's Camden in Hawaii (but without the drugs and pickpocketing). But Waikiki is a touristy place, and if you are visiting, International Market Place is actually a fun way to spend time, not to mention buy unique gifts for friends overseas, where they have a different sort of touristy tat.

Also, having come from Singapore, and spent time in L.A. recently, this Waikiki vendor spot makes a warm and welcome relief from the endless malls with identikit global brands. (Yep, same stores in L.A., Singapore, Honolulu, some also in London.. )

The depressing thing is they are apparently tearing down the International Market Place to build - yes! - another spanking new mall full of identikit brands. I'm not some old guy in a tweed jacket moaning about urban progress (and assuming it all isn't just a music industry-style 'final tour ever!' ruse) but this closure seems a real pity.

I spoke to one of the stall holders and asked what she was going to do when the place closed down. She said with a shrug "Go somewhere else, I suppose."

You can click on images for a slide show

 

The Pasar Malam

In Singapore, some of these pop up around the Islamic holy month of Ramadan. Pasar malam means simply 'night market' in Malay. But these are (often large) temporary market tents with vendors selling halal foods, toys, clothing, household things, electronic goods and lots and lots of bling. There were also quite a few henna hand-painting outfits on our visit. The one we went to at Payar Lebar in July consisted of several huge, circus-sized tents dotted around the free space.

During Ramadan, worshippers are only supposed to eat after sundown - hence I suspect the night market element. And if you are craving fried and spicy snacks or sweets, you will certainly find them here! After the festival, these market tents all disappear.

Worth a visit if you are in Singapore at the right time. (You can click on the photos to enlarge.)

 

 

Shopping in Singapore Part 1: Orchard Road

OK, this series applies to tourist shopping, but also to day-to-day shopping for people who live here but are new to Singapore ways. It also summarises a couple of previous posts on the retail subject. I will start with the most obvious:

Orchard Road               

This is the main drag – the Oxford Street of Singapore.. but with Bond Street shops on it. The busiest part lies between Orchard and Somerset MRT stations. And yep, all the megabrands are here in abundance in a huge array of glittering (and a few slightly less glittering!) malls. There are nice cafes, restaurants (mostly chains, but if you dig deeper into some malls, you can find more interesting, independent ones). And you will also see some very impressive decorations here over festive seasons, as well as wild, colourful retail displays you might not find in Europe, at least. On a reflective note, Orchard Road kind of symbolises the rampant consumerist culture in Asia – so many Gucci, Prada, LV shops.. and yet they’re all seemingly profitable! It’s definitely worth a visit as a tourist or as a resident.

Reaching your retail destination

The problem with this place is it is a complete nightmare to navigate. OK, malls are their own navigation challenge, if you are not used to them (see Malled to death from Feb 2012). But this is a town-planning issue! Orchard is just one long road, but you can only cross it at a couple of controlled points. J-walking is generally not encouraged here, but on Orchard Road, they have actually put fencing up so that you can’t do it. To add to this, there are endless building works going on, meaning that half the thoroughfares are boarded up and crossings are closed. “So what? A little walking never killed anyone,” I might hear some of you pout! But actually, walking outdoors in Singapore is NO picnic – there is 60-95% humidity and the sun can be merciless.

The Orchard Road scenario often goes like this:

“Oh look, there’s the bank / shop / restaurant we want to visit… but it’s a couple of metres across  the road. Oh no, I can’t cross the road!” Cue schlepping three blocks, dripping with sweat, to the nearest crossing point, then schlepping the three blocks BACK on the other side of the road to reach your destination.  It can get frustrating!

 

 

Underground walkways and the ludicrous interchange

Right by Orchard MRT station, there is a crossroads (to other prime sites such as Shaw House, the Marriott and Hyatt hotels..) which we are not allowed to cross. (And yes, for the past 12 months at least, it has come with ample building works!)

There is a series of tunnels supposedly helping us to reach our (extremely close, but nevertheless inaccessible at street level) locations on the other sides. But this is possibly the most complex and badly signposted setup I’ve ever come across in a modern city! My first experience was trying to go to meet friends at the Shaw House cinema. Which is clearly visible and very close to the main MRT exit! But of course I could not access it there. I was 25 minutes late.. as I got stuck in this claustrophobic tunnel system.

A lot of the escalators up to desired locations are quite well-concealed, so – especially if you are new to Singapore – you can easily miss them and just go round and round in the tunnels getting vexed. Add to this the fact the tunnels are packed, and you have to contend with the slow, chaotic Singapore Shuffle, and you can see why it took 25 minutes to, effectively, ‘cross the street’.

There are also airconditioned tunnels between certain large malls (not all of which allow you to cross the street, however). Unless you know these well, they are like the crossroads system – packed, slow to walk along, and most of all, confusing with signage and exits.

Don’t visit Orchard Road on weekends or Singapore public holidays!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips for visiting Orchard Road (if you make it on a working weekday)

You have two options here as I see it!

1. Ambling

If you have time and just want to mooch around, do this. It’s by far the most pleasant option, as on Orchard, intention = frustration!

·         Stay at street level for getting from A-B

·         Take a bottle of water with you as well as sunglasses, sunblock and I’d recommend a cheap paper fan

·         Make sure you have money from a ATM in advance

·         Take frequent breaks at cafes to relax and rehydrate (it will be nice and cool in the malls anyway)

·         Maybe start at one end, go up to a crossing point of choice, then work your way back.

2. A planned trip with purpose

·         Work out in advance where your desired destinations are

·         Plan so that you can do all of those on ONE side of the street together. Then, if you have to – find a crossing point and work your way back along the destinations on the other side of the street

·         Take a map of the area

·         Don’t think ‘I’ll have a look around then, go back’ if it requires crossing

·         Stay above ground, carry the fan etc as above

·         If you have to attempt the tunnel system, allow lots of extra time and treat it as an adventure, knowing in advance that it will probably drive you nuts. Look very carefully for small signs and concealed escalators!

·         If you have just one key destination and/or have a time-limit: take a cab.

Enjoy!

Guide to pix: (blogger won't let me caption them!) The CNY fan and flower decorations at Paragon; Apple tree decorations at Orchard Central (which is not, actually, central to Orchard, btw, but at the Somerset end!); Giant ice-creams somewhere near Somerset.