Around London today - Palladium House

London is an old city. In the centre you will find all the standard, global chain stores and restaurants as you walk around. But if you look up...

I passed by this place again today. It's Palladium House (originally Ideal House) built in 1929 and a really nice example of the Art Deco style which was fashionable then.

Ideal House was the UK headquarters for the American Radiator Company, and designed as a little sister to their black and gold skyscraper HQ in Manhattan. (Which is actually a bit bonkers and rather impressive!) 

Radiators - especially for Britain - were pretty hi-tech in the 1920s, and I guess the London building would have been equivalent to a flagship Tesla showroom today.

Palladium House now is a chain family restaurant at street level, and offices upstairs. It's also Grade II listed (meaning it's protected and only certain modifications can be made). And it's worth looking up for if you're near Oxford Circus!

Palladium House, 1-4 Argyll Street, London W1F 7TA

Also on this blog: 

After Asia, and the Algerian Coffee Stores

Older women, leopard-print and the Osaka obachan

About 10 years ago I made a humorous pact with a friend that if either of us hit 55 and started wearing leopard-print clothing (along with mini skirts etc) we would be roughly admonished by the other. We're thankfully neither of us near this point yet, but the reason we made the pact is as follows:

In the West, for some strange reason (and I suspect heavily rooted in 1960s or 70s fashion) some women of a certain age wear animal-print designs to look sexy. But it in fact the look has been for some decades, anything but sexy, and instead distinctly cheesy!* Animal print clothing might also be accompanied by a lot of make-up, dyed hair, a heavy fake tan, and a lot of gold jewellery. Another aspect that might chaperone this look is the fact that it won't change - it might start at a sexy 55 but continue on well into a lady's senior years. The look was very popular in the 1980s, even among Hollywood types. A major protagonist was (is) UK/US racy fiction writer Jackie Collins (pictured below left).

So I was slightly amused when I was introduced to the concept of the Japanese Osaka obachan (literally 'auntie from Osaka'). Osaka is famous for having an outgoing, humorous, 'louder' population in Japan. And the Osaka obachan is a type: an older woman who might be quite loud and is characterised by a wardrobe of animal-prints, with dyed hair, a lot of make-up and gold jewellery! I have no idea if the Osaka obachan style is derived from the Hollywood celebs of the 70s and 80s, or if she has grown up independently. Are women of a certain age - globally - naturally attracted to animal-print clothing?? A mystery that perhaps could make an entire PhD topic of investigation.

Meanwhile, here is a video from Japanese theatrical concept group 'Obachan' with the Obachan Theme! 

*Cheesy is non-rude British slang meaning without sophistication, cheap, dated, and perhaps slightly amusing as a result.

Jurong Bird Park

Finally (after nearly three years in SG) I got to visit the Bird Park! I'm a big nature fan, and particularly of bird-life, so it's been on my hit-list for months. I'd actually been advised to avoid this Bird Park, as it was apparently boring and a bit 'Disney for kids' (which would NOT be a winner for me!) But in actual fact, I enjoyed my day there. I went on a Monday, so it would be quiet. I didn't experience any Disney and you can avoid the kids' stuff if you wish.

I found the young, seemingly student-y staff particularly nice and helpful, and although getting there is a hike, there is a handy circuit bus 194 which runs from Boon Lay MRT to the park and back. 

Crowned Pigeons

But I really enjoyed seeing the birds. To me, the small, 'insignificant' ones are as interesting as the big crowd-pleasers (though harder to photograph!) And there were both to be seen here: owls, macaws, penguins, finches, doves, kingfishers, birds-of-paradise, birds of prey, dinosaur-like birds (the cassowary was especially strange/interesting!) and a lot more. The hornbills seemed to be particularly curious of their visitors, and quite a few of them swooped down to take a good close-up look at me - quite a privilege for me! The birds-of-paradise enclosure was rather ruined by the introduction of a loud TV, but otherwise the park was more 'authentic' than I expected.

And if we're going for impressive - or if you have limited time to spend at the Bird Park - I would go to the Waterfall Aviary. This one's a biggie, fitted out like a jungle walk with a huge waterfall in it. And of course, all sorts of birds living in the place if you can spot them! 

 

It took me about three hours to see all I wanted to, avoiding any 'feeding times' and other family-focused activities. The place is not enormous, and there are plenty of pit-stops with fans, seats and toilets. But do take water and a hand fan (and maybe some snacks) with you, as walking anywhere in SG for three hours is a hot deal!

[You can click on pix to get a slideshow / larger images]





For more about Jurong Bird Park:
http://www.birdpark.com.sg/index.html
 

Flag-Waving, Solar-Panel-Hat Road Man

Love this! Another note from my recent trip to Malaysia. Where there were road-works, these scarecrow type dummies stand in the road waving you to slow down. They're solar-powered, with the power panel stylishly perched on their heads!

My local friends said it was a good idea, not least as real men stood a solid chance of getting run over if they were to do the job (given Malaysian crazy-driving standards, I believe them!) But I can't help thinking these guys could be a bit of a freaky encounter at night! (Good horror movie material maybe... a follow up to the fabulous Zombi Kampung Pisang?)

(And for those interested: Zombi Kampung Pisang trailer ^^
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Qk5Vl6Abwc )

Chinese Garden.. Singapore

OK, I went here in a rampaging storm, which was actually quite good fun, but possibly not the best thing for photos. And it's not up there with another of my free Singapore fave-raves, the fabulous Haw Par Villa (see Singapore: a step into the strange) - but it's definitely worth a visit. 

It is actually a Chinese style gardens, and a not-100%-authentic Japanese garden, located at Jurong and accessible via (yes!) Chinese Garden MRT. Both gardens were built in the mid-1970s.

Chinese Garden is a nice park, with a bit of wildlife, but also some really quite impressive Chinese-style architectural features - several large Pagodas, statues, a stately arched bridge, a Garden of Abundance, and other brightly coloured buildings in (apparently) the Northern Chinese Imperial style. 

If you have a free afternoon, pop down; it does feel like a bit of an escape from Singapore! (You can click on pix for a larger slideshow)

        

The Pasar Malam

In Singapore, some of these pop up around the Islamic holy month of Ramadan. Pasar malam means simply 'night market' in Malay. But these are (often large) temporary market tents with vendors selling halal foods, toys, clothing, household things, electronic goods and lots and lots of bling. There were also quite a few henna hand-painting outfits on our visit. The one we went to at Payar Lebar in July consisted of several huge, circus-sized tents dotted around the free space.

During Ramadan, worshippers are only supposed to eat after sundown - hence I suspect the night market element. And if you are craving fried and spicy snacks or sweets, you will certainly find them here! After the festival, these market tents all disappear.

Worth a visit if you are in Singapore at the right time. (You can click on the photos to enlarge.)

 

 

Shopping in Singapore Part 1: Orchard Road

OK, this series applies to tourist shopping, but also to day-to-day shopping for people who live here but are new to Singapore ways. It also summarises a couple of previous posts on the retail subject. I will start with the most obvious:

Orchard Road               

This is the main drag – the Oxford Street of Singapore.. but with Bond Street shops on it. The busiest part lies between Orchard and Somerset MRT stations. And yep, all the megabrands are here in abundance in a huge array of glittering (and a few slightly less glittering!) malls. There are nice cafes, restaurants (mostly chains, but if you dig deeper into some malls, you can find more interesting, independent ones). And you will also see some very impressive decorations here over festive seasons, as well as wild, colourful retail displays you might not find in Europe, at least. On a reflective note, Orchard Road kind of symbolises the rampant consumerist culture in Asia – so many Gucci, Prada, LV shops.. and yet they’re all seemingly profitable! It’s definitely worth a visit as a tourist or as a resident.

Reaching your retail destination

The problem with this place is it is a complete nightmare to navigate. OK, malls are their own navigation challenge, if you are not used to them (see Malled to death from Feb 2012). But this is a town-planning issue! Orchard is just one long road, but you can only cross it at a couple of controlled points. J-walking is generally not encouraged here, but on Orchard Road, they have actually put fencing up so that you can’t do it. To add to this, there are endless building works going on, meaning that half the thoroughfares are boarded up and crossings are closed. “So what? A little walking never killed anyone,” I might hear some of you pout! But actually, walking outdoors in Singapore is NO picnic – there is 60-95% humidity and the sun can be merciless.

The Orchard Road scenario often goes like this:

“Oh look, there’s the bank / shop / restaurant we want to visit… but it’s a couple of metres across  the road. Oh no, I can’t cross the road!” Cue schlepping three blocks, dripping with sweat, to the nearest crossing point, then schlepping the three blocks BACK on the other side of the road to reach your destination.  It can get frustrating!

 

 

Underground walkways and the ludicrous interchange

Right by Orchard MRT station, there is a crossroads (to other prime sites such as Shaw House, the Marriott and Hyatt hotels..) which we are not allowed to cross. (And yes, for the past 12 months at least, it has come with ample building works!)

There is a series of tunnels supposedly helping us to reach our (extremely close, but nevertheless inaccessible at street level) locations on the other sides. But this is possibly the most complex and badly signposted setup I’ve ever come across in a modern city! My first experience was trying to go to meet friends at the Shaw House cinema. Which is clearly visible and very close to the main MRT exit! But of course I could not access it there. I was 25 minutes late.. as I got stuck in this claustrophobic tunnel system.

A lot of the escalators up to desired locations are quite well-concealed, so – especially if you are new to Singapore – you can easily miss them and just go round and round in the tunnels getting vexed. Add to this the fact the tunnels are packed, and you have to contend with the slow, chaotic Singapore Shuffle, and you can see why it took 25 minutes to, effectively, ‘cross the street’.

There are also airconditioned tunnels between certain large malls (not all of which allow you to cross the street, however). Unless you know these well, they are like the crossroads system – packed, slow to walk along, and most of all, confusing with signage and exits.

Don’t visit Orchard Road on weekends or Singapore public holidays!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips for visiting Orchard Road (if you make it on a working weekday)

You have two options here as I see it!

1. Ambling

If you have time and just want to mooch around, do this. It’s by far the most pleasant option, as on Orchard, intention = frustration!

·         Stay at street level for getting from A-B

·         Take a bottle of water with you as well as sunglasses, sunblock and I’d recommend a cheap paper fan

·         Make sure you have money from a ATM in advance

·         Take frequent breaks at cafes to relax and rehydrate (it will be nice and cool in the malls anyway)

·         Maybe start at one end, go up to a crossing point of choice, then work your way back.

2. A planned trip with purpose

·         Work out in advance where your desired destinations are

·         Plan so that you can do all of those on ONE side of the street together. Then, if you have to – find a crossing point and work your way back along the destinations on the other side of the street

·         Take a map of the area

·         Don’t think ‘I’ll have a look around then, go back’ if it requires crossing

·         Stay above ground, carry the fan etc as above

·         If you have to attempt the tunnel system, allow lots of extra time and treat it as an adventure, knowing in advance that it will probably drive you nuts. Look very carefully for small signs and concealed escalators!

·         If you have just one key destination and/or have a time-limit: take a cab.

Enjoy!

Guide to pix: (blogger won't let me caption them!) The CNY fan and flower decorations at Paragon; Apple tree decorations at Orchard Central (which is not, actually, central to Orchard, btw, but at the Somerset end!); Giant ice-creams somewhere near Somerset.

ZoukOut 2012 & raving in England

Yep my second visit to that lucrative party-place Sentosa island. I was invited to this by friends, or would never have thought to go. Zouk is a nightclub in Singapore (and also Kuala Lumpur.. there may be others!) and ZoukOut equals Zouk, outside..

It was kind of a rave / festival on Siloso Beach. But in a very nice, commercially organised way! Apparently it's the biggest in Asia, with people coming from all over the region to join in, totalling an estimated 40,000 partygoers over two days. Music was all DJs, international, including celebrity ones like Calvin Harris. It was good for dancing, with some fun sideshows etc too. The party ran from 8pm-8am and by around 4am we were all a bit sandy, and ready for home. (Plus it got packed, and the music took a dive once Harris arrived!) Anyway, it was worth a visit. (Maybe just the once.)

Back in the day I went with four lads from my hometown to a rave. It was a really big, illegal one - somewhere outdoors in Southern England. To find it took some doing, and required beetling up motorways (you need a car) and finding others who were heading there; stopping at service stations to get intel from fellow ravers from all corners of the UK.. it was like a big treasure hunt! Finally we convoyed with a bunch of other souped-up, boy-racer cars and found it. It was open air, out on a deserted moor - with a huge, impressive sound-system and set-up. A £20 admission fee was required to get our car on site. Then a further surprise £20 was levied to get in through the (farm!) gates on foot. It opened at around 1am with a very impressive laser show - flashing out shapes and messages across the clouds. But.. aaahh.. the UK and cloud! Before long, down came the rain. We all got back in our cars and waited. And waited. And waited. Sound equipment and water are not good friends, and after several wet hours, the entire plastic-covered set was packed up. That was the end of our rave!

I guess the lesson here is: if you are holding an illegal rave in England, make sure it's indoors. Or, hold it in Singapore, where you are pretty much guaranteed a good, open-air climate. Of course, it can't be illegal here, though!

Christmas lights on Orchard

For some reason, London Christmas lights have a reputation. Often my friends outside the city (especially those with small children) will say, "Please send us photos of the Oxford Street / Regent Street lights!" In fact there is even an official ceremony for switching them on (usually conducted for local press by a B- or C-list celebrity.)

But the truth of the matter is that the Oxford and Regent Street lights are usually pants. I have lived in London for over 15 years and this has been fairly consistent! Usually they are simply a set of illuminated advertisements for the latest Christmas Disney movie, or another big-brand commercial. There ain't much creative, pretty or Christmassy about it!*

I am guessing Westminster Council is cost cutting (and the advertisements pay for themselves).

And if we're talking about somewhere prosperous that does not need to cost-cut in the way we know it, Singapore is your place! I went to a party on Orchard Road last night, and what a perdy, perdy job they have done of the lights there! And it's not even a Christian country (OK, I know the connection between Christmas and Christianity worldwide was probably severed ages ago) but if they do this for Christmas, what does Singapore do for the real biggie - Chinese New Year?

Anyway, here are a few snaps I took last night - for your viewing pleasure ;) (You can click on pix to enlarge.)

* If you want to see pretty, Christmassy things in London I would recommend Bond Street (posh but nicely done) and the arcades: London at Christmas: festive arcades

Fireworks shaped like hearts!

The man-made island of Sentosa is quite a big deal over here in Singapore. (See also Whitney, thongs and adventures on Sentosa from April) It is, indeed a Disney in its own way (also housing... a Disney). Anyway, each night apparently, Sentosa puts on an impressive fireworks display. And if you happen to be at VivoCity (the large mainland mall next to Sentosa) you will get a good view.

We were eating sausages outside at the Bavarian-style bar Brotzeit, when this show kicked off. And it was impressive! They even made exploding hearts :)

The Peranakan Museum

This was my Monday tea-time excursion, and I wish I'd left a little sooner, to allow more time here. I really enjoyed this visit. The museum was curated in a really fun, colourful way, and, it turns out coincidentally, there was a whole exhibition featuring one of my family in there!

Peranakan is a Malay term and it refers to the cultures and people of mixed-race heritage derived from intermarriage of traders and local women. Here (Singapore, Melaka, Penang for example) this normally means Chinese traders and local Malay women. But I found out 'peranakan' includes other groups such as the Jawa Peranakan (South Indian Muslim merchants and local women) and Chitty Melaka Peranakan (South Indian Hindu traders and locals). This region had great importance during the days of the Silk Route, so many foreigners put down roots here. (Not much has changed!)

The museum focuses on the unique culture and customs of the Straits Peranakan Chinese. Their wedding ceremony, housing, eating, religion and crafts. The ceramics are beautiful (pink and orange are included as 'lucky colours' in Chinese Peranakan lore, and butterfly, peony and phoenix motifs are also special. So you can tell these colourful pots and dishes apart from 'regular Chinese' ones!) I especially enjoyed the telephones display: three retro phones are lined up and if you listen, you get a conversation from 1950s, 1970s etc, reflecting a typical episode for Chinese Peranakans from those eras.

Also throughout the museum are 'levers' which will prettily emboss any sheet of paper you have with Peranakan symbols - I wish I'd taken some notepaper with me!

Which brings me on to: Emily of Emerald Hill

The current exhibition. 'Emily' is a well known play by Stella Kon, which tells the lifestory of Peranakan Chinese woman during the 20th century. And one of the famous Emily actors featured in the exhibition is my stepmother Pearlly Chua (herself Peranakan Chinese). All very random, but there you are! I really liked the way the museum put together this exhibition too. It wove in fun contemporary illustrations etc alongside historical artifacts relating to the play and character. And I really enjoyed the 'stamping desk' (results above)!

Anyway, here's the typical Blogger-style badly laid-out pix which I can't caption, but click for slideshow! Check out the website below for more info.

 

 

 

Open most days, admission SG$6
39 Armenian Street, Singapore 179941
City Hall or Bras Basah MRT
http://www.peranakanmuseum.sg/home/home.asp

There's also a shop and cool little shoebox cafe on site, which I must investigate next time.