After Asia: Very Poor Quality Housing and an Inconsiderate Culture

Any Brit living in APAC (unless, perhaps, they are a millionaire) will say that the living conditions in the UK/London are terrible by comparison to those in many local countries. It is one of those things which I never really clocked, until I lived abroad. I was utterly miserable in most of my British accommodation, but - like a lot of Brits here today - flatly refused to believe it was anything other than 'normal'. Well, poor living conditions are normal for regular-earners in the UK. But they're not, necessarily, elsewhere in the world. And, even more bizarrely, UK rent and accommodation outstrips almost every other city in the world for high cost (and cost relative to salary). 

Here are the main issues: 

Old Buildings
Most accommodation in the UK is in old buildings. And not designed for modern, high-density living. Today's scenario sees the 'high-density' houses built in, say, the 1930s, now subdivided into many poorly converted, even smaller (and hyper-expensive!) apartments. Old buildings handle temperatures poorly (a lot of drafts and heat-leakage in winter; lack of ventilation in summer). And because they were never intended to be apartments, you'll find tiny kitchens, lack of bathrooms, and - due to the poor quality, old, conversions: no privacy or soundproofing whatsoever.

I've lived in plenty of shares where you would have four professionals queuing desperately each morning for use of the ONE bathroom (which will inconveniently also contain the only toilet) before work. Woe betide anyone who gets sick and might need it more frequently! 

A 'fully modernised' London conversion will mean the interiors, kitchen fittings etc will be upgraded. But the structure, and lack of soundproofing, will remain the same. In most period conversions it is common to hear your neighbours': 
- Conversations
- Arguments 
- Chopping / cooking sounds
- Television
- Music
- Washing machine
- Entertaining   
- Doors and drawers being closed
- Snoring 
- Walking around (especially if you are below them or somebody has wood floors)
- Sexual exploits in bed.

This constant noise pollution has been the single most stressful aspect for me and many of my friends. It can badly impact your mental and physical health. Working and commuting in London is exceptionally high-stress. You really do need to be able to relax and wind-down when you are at home. But the neighbour noise will often prevent this. Any one converted apartment can adjoin six or more others which you can hear. You would have to be very lucky to have considerate, quiet, people in all of them! (And even if you do, the high turnover of tenants in places like London means that that could change at any time!) 
 

The Inconsiderate Culture
Western and Eastern cultures have many differences! Modern British culture, for example, is very thoughtful regarding diversity, people's human rights, support for those struggling/in need and many other good things. But this traditionally does not extend into living at home. Again, I've only really noticed this after having eight years elsewhere for comparison! It's not to say that individual people are not considerate in our homes. In previous shares I've been in, we tried to operate a 9-9 rule. This means that we don't put on music, washing machine, do repairs or make other anti-social noise before 9am or after 9pm. Just because we knew neighbours would hear all of it! But many people are either simply not aware, or believe it is their right to do as they please within their own homes. Including playing loud music or TV, and having loud parties. This, in the UK's non-soundproofed, poor quality housing - is highly problematic! Bass and sub-woofer (both very popular in the UK, and obviously not even in existence when these old properties were built!) can carry down an entire row of subdivided, old houses. As a musician friend of mine pointed out, residential housing is simply not equipped to deal with bass. And if it is old, flimsy residential housing too....

There are no operational authorities in places like London to deal with neighbour noise. The under-resourced police are trying to handle shootings and stabbings; and a couple of decades ago, they handed neighbour disturbance responsibility to the equally under-resourced local councils (who in reality can do nothing - as many of us have discovered). People in the UK generally do not abide by laws in the way people might in some Asian countries - not least because authorities are so ill-equipped to enforce them! Modern condos with their own security or block-management are almost non-existent in London. The only option is to try to confront the neighbours yourself. And even if done very tactfully, this often gets an aggressive or rebellious reaction with volume being turned UP, just to spite you. Because Westerners generally don't like being told what to do.

Alcohol can also play a key role here (and recreational drugs, which are also common). If people are drunk, it is less likely they'll be aware of the noise they're making. In some cases it is dangerous to approach noisy neighbours. So a vast percentage of noise just persists. If you rent, the trick is to never sign a long-term lease, and always have a get-out clause. Just in case the noise is unbearable after you move in!

In two of my homes in APAC, I did suffer noise disturbance, but it was not the norm. (I lived in a whole host of quiet homes during my eight years!) The instances in Asia were 1) a location where it turned out boy-racers would speed their Ferraris at night (not neighbours, per se) and 2) an actual powerful, gang-related resident, who the block management were unable to control (though they did try). Aside from having block management, or also security in some cases, most housing in SE Asian cities is also modern, and purpose-built / insulated. And often with rooms or outdoor space away from the apartments, for people to practice musical instruments, or have parties etc if they want to. Parties are closed down at 10pm, to allow other residents to sleep. And if you want to celebrate late, or have loud music, people will go out to a bar or club to do it. But aside from all this 'design', the cultures I lived amongst simply were not into playing sub-woofer, getting drunk, or having loud parties at home. It's just not the deal. And anyone who tried to do the above would immediately be shut down by complaining neighbours - as the general vibe was that it's obstructing others' rights to peace and quiet if you do it! (Some friends and I were shut down from even having a quiet BBQ-side chat one night - because it was disturbing some of our neighbours from their sleep. Our reaction: An apology and immediately quieting down. Not pump up the volume to spite them!)

The combo of culture and poor quality housing in the UK is a high stress one. And something I pitied my London friends having to endure, as soon as I moved overseas! In the UK, period homes have gained a reputation (perhaps developed cleverly by real estate agents?) of being 'characterful' and therefore more desirable.. . But however beautiful your apartment might look, if you can't use the toilet, get peace, sleep or relax when you need to, it isn't even really a 'home'. AND on top of rent, your costs for heating will rocket as so much is lost through old structures. There is no longer any appeal for me! If I have to stay longer in London, I hope to rent an apartment in one of the city's very rare, modern condominiums. It's unfashionable, but you can't put a price on having peace and privacy at home! 

A typical London terrace. These old houses will now have been subdivided into many small flats!

Also on this blog: 

After Asia: a dearth of smartphones in public!

Chillblains

Here's something you don't get in the tropics! But you do get them frequently in colder climates, such as the UK winter. 

Chillblains, aka Chill Burns, are itchy, sore areas which normally develop on your toes or fingers (and even ears, nose and other cold-exposed areas, apparently). They were a frequent occurrence when I was a child - especially as we spent a lot of time playing outdoors in the cold; and before Heattech and thermal socks were a thing! Usually toes become red and swollen - though there is no obvious skin damage. The damage is the effect of cold (and damp) on toe tissue - and is worsened by the human instinct to put very cold feet immediately by a hot fire or radiator! Chillblains are usually harmless, but they're uncomfortable and can last for a couple of weeks. 

So in case any of you tropical types intend to visit a cold climate this Christmas: wear good thermal socks and gloves, keep your digits dry. And if they feel like they're frozen, don't heat them quickly with something very hot! Instead try warming some socks or gloves and put those on, to gently revive your tootsies! Or just relax and let your fingers and toes thaw at room temperature :)

Happy (healthy) holidays! 

Image: old ad found on Pinterest

Also on this blog:

Short Days, Long Nights

Snow!

 

After Asia: Sniffing (East and West)

I sniff a lot. I trained myself to do it while living in SE Asia. I don't mean sniffing to smell things, but sniffing with a cold nose. And it's problematic while I'm in the UK! Here's why:

In the UK (for some reason) it is considered extremely uncouth / unpleasant to make noises with your nose in public. Most of the UK year is cold, and people are likely to have runny noses - because of the low temperatures, allergies, or actual mild illnesses. But the custom is that you handle these symptoms by dabbing, or blowing into a tissue (or in the old days, a fabric handkerchief). If there's any kind of noise required, it is considered polite to make it in the bathroom with a tissue (and wash your hands afterwards). But for a 'cold nose' from outdoors, for example, you'd dab with a paper tissue, even in public. 

British toddlers are taught "Don't sniff, blow," as parents countrywide reach for tissues to help them. Medically, in fact, there doesn't seem to be much to back nose-blowing (and a few things which suggest it's harmful). The UK preference for a blow over a sniff seems to be mainly just one of tradition, and I guess the gross-out factor of the audio?

In Singapore (and I believe Japan, and some other East Asian countries) the opposite is true. Tissues and handkerchiefs are considered disgusting - because they potentially spread germs. And thus it is much more polite to sniff, rather than blow or dab. In Singapore, this can be taken to the extreme, with full-on nasal-honking and other loud noises from men and women in public. I still find these  outbursts tough to take - because I was brought up in Western culture! 

But after finding out about it, I agree with the lighter aspects of sniffing. Tissues (and worse, non-disposable handkerchiefs) really ARE quite revolting, especially if hands are not washed after use. And while I was living in Singapore, I caught on with the light sniffing trend. (People in the tropics do still get colds, and snuffles from overzealous aircon and other changes in temp!)

SO, a few winter months in the UK, and it looks like I'll need to re-train myself all over again. And invest in banks of paper tissues. A few people have given me odd looks when sniffing (odd looks = a passive British way of expressing 'eeiiw'!) just as I thought 'eeiiw!' when I first moved to Singapore! And it's endless runny-nose-weather in London, so I'd best get with the programme! But I still struggle with the snotty tissue/hanky concept - and prefer to at least chuck after one use. I mean, Asian or not, shouldn't we all be doing that anyway, to limit the spread of winter germs?

:)

English learners: "get with the programme" is a colloquial phrase which means to keep up and follow what others are doing.

Also on this blog:

On or Off? The Shoe Thing 

 

Photo credit: livingwell.borges.com

The Twelve Days of Christmas - a revelation!

Christmas, like Chinese New Year, Divali and other big festivals officially lasts for some days. Twelve of them, for Church of England (Protestant) Christianity*. Who knew?

From around the 6th century, 'Christmas' has traditionally started on 25th December and lasted until 6th January - a day known as Epiphany. This period is known as the Christmas Season, or sometimes Christmastide. And it includes a whole raft of Christian festivals I had never heard of, including St Stephen's Day on December 26th, the Feast of the Circumcision of Christ (!) and a feast for Mary (Jesus's mother) on New Year's Day. Feasting, worship, Christmas cake, carol-singing and other things are supposed to take place over this Christmas Season. And giving gifts (often one for each of the twelve days) was a custom to reflect the Christian story of the wise men bringing gifts for the infant Jesus. There is actually a traditional festive song which we still sing across Europe, which describes (a bit theatrically!) gifts given over the Twelve Days of Christmas. But I wonder how many children know what, or when, the twelve days really are? (I certainly didn't!)

In Christianity, Epiphany is the day when the wise men (or 'Magi') made their visit to the newborn Jesus. And for the Church of England, it marks the end of the traditional Christmas Season. The night before is known as Twelfth Night, which was also a time for extra partying (and is the title of a famous Shakespearean play).

But all this gets confusing, because today's rituals are quite different. In modern day, fairly secular, Britain, for example, the three main festival days are probably Christmas Eve (24th December), Christmas Day (25th) and Boxing Day (26th) - the latter two being public holidays. We don't really recognise Twelfth Night or Epiphany any more, except perhaps as a vague indicator that we should remove Christmas decos before 6th January. (And I think that idea is also corrupted from another Christian festival!)

In 2019, the "Christmas Season" is more likely to reflect Advent - the period leading up to Christmas Day and Boxing Day. I suspect not least because Christmas is mostly about modern retail sales, as people rush out to prepare for the public holidays. But we also have carol-singing and other less commercial activities during Advent as well now. And children's advent calendars do often (misleadingly!) include images from the Twelve Days of Christmas song - although it is rather early. 

Some modern UK businesses close down from Christmas Day to 2nd January. But this is also a commercial decision because so many staff will take the period between Christmas and New Year public holidays for annual leave. It tends to be a 'dead time' for a lot of European business!

Anyway, here is a video of the Twelve Days of Christmas song. This was originally a French rhyme from the 18th century, and set to music in 1909. The first present, a partridge, would have been gifted on Christmas day :) 

Plus: Lyrics to the Twelve Days of Christmas


* FYI there are many different branches of Christianity, Western and Eastern, and even just within the UK. And many of them celebrate Christmas slightly differently. I've used the most common one in the UK, and the one I know best (though my family is not particularly religious!)


Also on this blog:

Christmassy Things: Christmas! 

Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh

メリ~クリスマス: and The Big Shutdown!

London at Christmas: The Advent Calendar

Christianity (slightly) Defined...

Beans

In UK colloquial food-speak, if someone says 'beans' it only really means one thing: canned baked beans in sweet tomato sauce. Basically the world-famous Heinz style offering (and various British own-brand store versions).

Canned baked beans have become so much a part of UK culture, that they require no further information! And I realised this recently while talking to a friend from France (where it seems 'beans' rightly means, well, any kind of bean-ish legume!)

British people do actually eat (and grow) many other kinds of bean (green beans, runner beans, broad beans to name a few). But they will usually be described in a way that distinguishes them from 'beans'.

In fact the origin of today's baked bean is native American (where maple syrup was used in the sauce). And, like so many other recipes worldwide, it was admired, and adapted by others. In this case American colonists - eventually finding its way to the UK in the late 19th century via Heinz's canned exports. In fact, like today's humble orange, canned baked beans were a super-luxury item back then, sold through London's exclusive Fortnum & Mason! Today's popular UK version is less sweet. And much more accessible ;)

Brits tend to eat baked beans (always heated!) on buttered toast, as a side to other traditional dishes, or as part of a cooked breakfast. They became an integral part of traditional British breakfasts - the Full English and Scottish, and also Irish*, apparently - from the early 1900s. That's over 100 years to build their 'iconic' status in the UK!

Photo: BBC Good Food

* Yes, all these regional variations on a cooked breakfast exist!


Also on this blog:

Ipoh and Creme Caramel - the Global Dessert 

British Christmas Nosh

 

Ipoh and Creme Caramel - the Global Dessert

This Christmas I joined some friends on a trip to Ipoh, a Malaysian town situated somewhere between Kuala Lumpur and Penang.

The town itself is interesting. Quite Chinese-influenced (Malaysia's ethnic populations are Malay, Chinese and Indian) Ipoh today is a blend of authentic old stuff, alongside some quite smart and thoughtfully conceived hipster places.  So you'll find interesting, locally-executed, modern  cafes and boutique b+b's, alongside fab old peranakan architecture and Chinese hawker stalls. I guess what makes Ipoh currently different from some other towns in this region, is that it has yet to become properly touristy (ie a plasticated and homogenised 'Asia' for foreign audiences) or too gentrified like the now very beautifully restored (and expensively desirable!) heritage areas of Singapore. A lot of Ipoh still has unique charm. Be it the old stuff - which is still reminiscent of the 60s and 70s in this region - or the new, which has definite Malaysian roots.

One detail which slightly surprised me in the old Chinese hawker places, however, were ubiquitous period posters for what looked suspiciously like my mother's homemade English creme caramel dessert. It's the first time I'd seen such ads in this region. And yep, it was the same dessert!

Creme caramel is an old European recipe. The name is French, but the pudding's exact origins might be French or Spanish. In the 20th century it became especially popular across Europe, including being on-trend in 1970s and 80s Britain (when my mother used to make it!)

But the Brits didn't introduce it to old colonial Malaya. Seems this tasty pudd was imported way before that, by the Portuguese in the 1500s, and it began to gain Southeast Asian popularity from there! Although I'd never encountered it before, turns out creme caramel - known in Malaysia as caramel custard - is a fairly traditional and popular recipe with all the ethnic communities there.

In fact, this dessert was introduced variously by the Spanish, French and Portuguese to all sorts of historical colonies and trading partners worldwide. And you will still find variants on these old recipes in Latin America, India, The Philippines, Japan, Vietnam and elsewhere! Who knew?

A truly universal pudding :)

Caramel custard image in Ipoh

This post was first drafted in 2018.

British Birdsong

As some of you know, I love birdsong, and have all my life! There is something very evocative about it - of country, of temperature, setting - for me. 

And the UK - possibly because most of my childhood was spent there - has some of the most evocative. These aren't the big, projected chirrups of tropical birds, but when you get used to them, they're very distinct. Most of these birds have many different calls (for mating, alarm, general chat!) but I've picked the ones I know best for these four faves.

You will hear less bird-life in London than in rural parts of Britain. A spring or summer woodland in the UK can be a cacophony of really quite lovely singing, and worth visiting!

Chaffinch
This is such a springtime + sunshine (morning) song for me! Though as this video shows, these guys sing at all times of year :)

Blackbird
One of the most common and unremarkable-seeming of British birds. But they have a very clear and pretty song. This video also features their agitated alarm calls (which we did hear when the cats were outside!) Blackbird calls are very reminiscent of long English summer evenings to me!

Woodpigeon
Another song very evocative of long, warm, relaxed summer evenings in rural areas. These plushie guys are different from London's famous, scrawnier, city pigeons (which are descended from lost racing pigeons). I have seen Woodpigeons in the city's leafier parks, but not heard them - perhaps due to urban noise pollution?

European Robin
These guys' clear little tones can be heard year-round in the UK. And they always makes me smile. Robins are much-loved in Britain. Partly because they're quite social with humans (they will often sit near gardeners for example - I expect hoping to get worms and bugs exposed by the work!) They also have a place in old Christian folklore, and their winter presence and cheerful plumage has made them emblematic of Christmas :) 

Also on this blog:

Favourite bird calls of Singapore

Martial Art of the Month: Lethwei

Lethwei, aka Burmese boxing, or Burmese bare-knuckle boxing, popped up on my radar while watching some Asian MMA fights. Seems this particular promotion is breaking the Myanmar market, and so is hyping its Burmese fighters - many of whom have Lethwei in their arsenal. I had not heard of the art before. And it's brutal!

From what I can make out, Lethwei shares many aspects with neighbouring striking arts such as Muay Thai and Khmer boxing. The big differences are, however:

1. Rather than being a foul, head-butting is an integral part of the art
2. No gloves or mitts are worn - only gauze wraps. (This should also make for some pretty lethal/painful strikes) 
3. In local and traditional bouts, at least, there are no points, only knockouts. And you could knock your opponent out more than once before the game is ended.

Lethwei is an old art. I can't find dates which agree online, but it seems there are carvings depicting it in Burma's ancient Pyu cities. (Which apparently date from 200 BC to around 1100 AD - which is fairly broad!) But perhaps uniquely, when fights were held for entertainment, it seems that anyone from a king to a farmer could get into the sandpit-ring and call for an opponent.

How it works: While muay thai is known as an art of eight limbs (strikes using punches, kicks, elbows, knees) the use of the head makes Lethwei nine limbed. Just as there are multiple techniques to learn for say kicking, or elbows, there are also multiple kinds of head-butt in Lethwei, which can be used in different ways. More clinching is allowed in Lethwei, as well as some familiar throws and sweeps.

Traditionally - and in modern local matches - the only way to win is to knock out or  incapacitate your opponent. If both fighters are standing, the bout is declared a draw. Even more unusually, if one participant is knocked out, his or her corner has two minutes to revive their fighter, and send them BACK to continue in the ring! This is not an art for the faint-hearted. 

A bout will usually consist of five, three-minute rounds. With a two minutes between each round. This is double the usual rest-time for sports like Western boxing or MMA - and perhaps it's needed?? In the modern day, groin and gum shields are compulsory.

Lethwei has also enjoyed some popularity worldwide. In the mid-20th century, a process of modernising the rules was undertaken, with the aim of making the sport more transferable overseas. In international fights, a points-system is used, rather than only KO or incapacitation options. The art has had some success in Japan. And this year the World Lethwei Championships were even screened to a global audience via UFC Fight Pass. 

Here's a vid showing a basic head-butt training technique. The reel features Lethwei star Phoe Thaw, and well-known international Lethwei fighter, Dave Leduc. The 'arm slapping' action at the beginning and end is called lekkha moun. It is the way of challenging a Lethwei opponent to fight. 

And some clips from contemporary Lethwei training + bouts in Myanmar. I watch a lot of fights, but these do seem pretty brutal even to me! Balls of steel required for this art, and I guess is shows a little how lethal traditional martial arts would have been in the field centuries ago - a matter of life and death after all. (You have been warned.) 

Also on this blog:

Martial Art of the Month: Cambodia - Pradal Serey (Khmer Boxing)

Burmese Nosh: First Contact 

After Asia: The UK Does Not Do Tech

It's true! 

When I first moved to Singapore eight years ago, I remember being slightly horrified that so many things were online and automated. Because to me, anything using technology would be at best unreliable for use. THAT is because I'd been living in the UK! I was delighted to find that in Singapore (and nearby countries) technology works 99% of the time. And it actually does what people had trumpeted it should: make our daily lives simpler, more efficient and less stressful! 

That last statement certainly did not apply to the UK in 2011. But shockingly, I find it still doesn't now! I had coffee with a Japanese friend quite soon after I returned and was having problems with internet service. And she basically laughed, and coined the title of this post: "The UK does not do tech!"

OK, of course technology exists in the UK, but in a vast majority of cases for regular humans, it just doesn't work. I know Brits will be hopping up and down going 'But it does work!' - but compared to even some developing countries in APAC, it really doesn't! Here are four examples from my recent time in London: 

1. Supermarket checkouts have been automated. There could be maybe 20 self-service machines in a larger store now. And regardless of whether you agree with automation or not, at the very least, that should mean no queuing for the customer. But it's almost guaranteed that 50-60% of machines will be Closed or Out of Service. Or in service, but break down while you're using them. So tellers no longer get paid, and customers still wait in long queues.

2. A large number of MRT stations (especially outside central Zone 1) are no longer manned. Again, a controversial move driven by cost, and there have been concerns over passenger safety etc. But it means that at some stations we rely solely on the machines for any queries or transactions. And again, 50% of the machines don't work! Or they will work for just one of the several services they're supposed to provide. But it might not be the one you need! I mean, a basic would be to allow people to buy tickets/travelcards, no? But I've been stranded at stations several times with groups of frustrated passengers - at a bank of machines all rejecting our cards and spitting out our cash.

3. Home internet breaks down! This is something I had completely forgotten could happen! In SE Asia, it's a given that your net is provided 24/7 - 365. Just like water, or electricity. And a company which couldn't do that would probably fold quite fast! And in fact, while living in Kuala Lumpur, we'd actually have power and water outages, but the net provider was solid throughout! (Well, apart from during the power failures obviously!) In the UK, net can fail completely, for weeks in some cases (as experienced with a terrible provider here called VirginMedia) and with ridiculously difficult processes to contact customer services, who are also not interested in helping! I am actually amazed that this company hadn't folded. But I guess the bar is set very low for service and tech, so people still go back to them? (Home internet is also very expensive in the UK!)

4. Online services do not work. Some do, and occasionally commercial outfits - such as my bank - have actually improved in the past eight years. But try to (again) buy a train ticket, order medication, or do other important things online, and there's a high chance that it won't work. AND it will probably require hours of your time and stress discovering this! AND old-fashioned systems have often been removed in favour of the non-functional tech - so you're left with no way forward! The centralised (non-MRT) train ticket systems are so atrocious that my flatmate (who needs to travel regularly for business) will actually make the trip across London to visit the station offices and buy in person. It takes a few hours of his day, but he says still saves time over attempting to do anything online! None of this seems very first-world.

Like I've said before, compared to the APAC region, the pace of change in the UK is very slow. But it has been EIGHT YEARS since I left, not eight months. And I find the continued inability to make tech work wholly perplexing! There are many, many very smart people here, who know how to do the various facets of tech. Famously, the internet was even invented by a Brit! So why, in 2019, does tech infrastructure still work so poorly? Sure, it's a bigger country than Singapore. And there's existing infrastructure to overcome (?) to put in the new. But making a basic website transaction work? Or getting reliable internet access for a home in central London? What's going on there? The failures happen across both government and commercial systems. Is there just terrible management managing the people who know about tech? A dearth of talent for one, vital facet of tech? One can't argue with the fact that technology is our present and future - so it seems unlikely that poor investment is the problem, especially at commercial level. Or - like the VirginMedia example - has the bar of performance for consumers just been set so low in the UK, that organisations just don't really care or try? 

It's not good news for our economy, though! Safety and ethics aside, wasting hours of working people's time, leaving them stranded at stations, or without medications, because of bad systems does not put us in a good position! Especially when other parts of the world have harnessed technology and are racing ahead with it. 

Hopefully I will at least be able to publish this post successfully! 

Photo credit: Twitter

Matcha of the Day: Tombo Cafe, London

Proper Japanese matcha places are hard to find in London. Though tbh so far I have either been working contracts (no time to sneeze, let alone search for matcha houses) or between them, and thus saving pennies in this (matcha) expensive city! 

But I'd had Tombo on my radar as an apparently Japanese place serving proper, Asian-style green tea drinks and desserts. So when I found myself near South Kensington recently, and with a little cash to throw around, I went in!

What I had: 
An iced matcha latte.

The price: GBP3.85 / S$6.53 
The size: average

The verdict: 
Passable. And probably better than many matcha lattes I've tried here (the UK standard in general is very poor!) This was a proper matcha latte - using cow's milk and normal matcha. And I made sure to ask for it to be sweet, and check the milk etc in advance, to avoid any horror shows like the Pret a Manger disaster.

But the milk was still regular stuff poured from a supermarket carton. (Whereas good, and cheaper, matcha houses in Asia test and source different milks to get the best possible experience for customers.) It took about 60 seconds to make - which was good as I didn't need to wait, but somehow felt a bit disappointing for the near £4 fee! Just the right amount of ice added. And the flavour was creamy, and with a little bit of strength. (I'm used to more strength, but hey!) Overall, it was recognisable as matcha, and I might go back if absolutely craving a green tea latte. But there was way too little bang for my bucks for it to be a regular - even if a Tombo was nearby.

Service was also pleasant. But in Singapore, for example, this drink would be considered mediocre and beyond over-priced. Perhaps that is as good as it gets in the UK?

Tombo: https://www.tombocafe.com/

Around London today: Dudding Hill

Most recently, I've been staying near Willesden Green in London. And given this sunny August weekend, I took a walk to investigate the nearest green space - Gladstone Park. 

The park is OK - more of a heath or fields than one of the excellent Royal Parks in this city. But one thing which seemed interesting there was this small, old station - closed to the public, and labelled Dudding Hill Junction. 

Turns out this is part of a little railway that time forgot! 

The station is part of the old Dudding Hill line, which was opened with much excitement in 1868. The line itself is only about 4 miles long, serving areas of North West / West London. In the late 1800s, the Willesden area (I think in part because of swanky new rail services) was morphing from an outskirts village, into a middle-class London suburb. [Which is kinda reflected in a lot of the architecture here - though today it's Zone 2, and fairly central in the ever-expanding city!] 

The Dudding Hill line was closed for general use just after 1900. It seems passenger services were soon picked up by the arrival of the even swankier Metropolitan and other lines which still function as part of today's London Underground. 

But amazingly, the old line STILL operates a sparse service, using a speed limit of 40mph, and semaphore signalling - just as it would have a century ago! The service is/was apparently mainly for freight, but with very occasional chartered passenger services (which in 2019 must be like a step back in time!) 

Tbh this line can't be generating much revenue, and I'm surprised that it has not been demolished to re-use the space/lines. In fact there have been numerous recent proposals to re-work it, but I'm not sure if any are going ahead. In a way this is quite nice, though. It is unusual to find inadvertent reminders of the past, especially in a big city like London!

Here's the photo I took of Dudding Hill Junction yesterday, and then one stolen from Wikipedia, which shows a glamorous Victorian passenger crowd descending the steps. :)

Around London today - Palladium House

London is an old city. In the centre you will find all the standard, global chain stores and restaurants as you walk around. But if you look up...

I passed by this place again today. It's Palladium House (originally Ideal House) built in 1929 and a really nice example of the Art Deco style which was fashionable then.

Ideal House was the UK headquarters for the American Radiator Company, and designed as a little sister to their black and gold skyscraper HQ in Manhattan. (Which is actually a bit bonkers and rather impressive!) 

Radiators - especially for Britain - were pretty hi-tech in the 1920s, and I guess the London building would have been equivalent to a flagship Tesla showroom today.

Palladium House now is a chain family restaurant at street level, and offices upstairs. It's also Grade II listed (meaning it's protected and only certain modifications can be made). And it's worth looking up for if you're near Oxford Circus!

Palladium House, 1-4 Argyll Street, London W1F 7TA

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After Asia, and the Algerian Coffee Stores

Not Matcha of the Day: fungal weirdness in Pret a Manger, London

Quite the most disgusting drink I've had in a while. x2. Oh my! 

"Pret" is one of London's ubiquitous eatery chains. It sells coffees, sandwiches, salads, pastries, to take-away or eat-in quickly. The food is fresh, decent quality. And not cheap. 

So when matcha latte was introduced during my stay, I was quite excited. In general, the UK does not do Japanese foody things well, and has a tendency to completely misunderstand them. Which is how the strange output of places like Wagamama still get accepted as Japanese food! 

But accessible matcha in a fairly classy place like Pret seemed worth a try. And in the absence of an Asian Tsujiri or Nana's on my way to work, this could prove a boon. 

But no.

Fashionably rancid
OK, on my first try, and despite the fact nearly all matcha latte in Asia is made with regular milk, I didn't specify regular milk. And so was automatically (inexplicably) given a Western-healthy, vegan, matcha made with a bizarre trend here: coconut-rice milk. Good grief! Revolting is not the word! A truly rancid concoction. And, despite its high price (around £2.50/S$4.50/$3.40 for a small cup) this green tea approximation had to go in the bin! 

Unperturbed, I went back the next day and requested another one with normal cow's milk. And though 100% better than the awful coconut one, it was still revolting. Bitter, yes. But nothing creamy or dreamy going on at all. It was grim; tasting as if very old, fungal-infected green tea  powder had been used instead of fresh stuff. 

No wonder so many British pals had been suspicious of my matcha obsession! If this weirdness is what's served up in the UK, they have every right to be turned-off! 

So, definitely save your pounds and avoid. Pret does good coffee and Western things. But it's up there with Itsu and Wagamama for the 'Japanese' stuff!

Advertised with pride! OMG :/

For more matcha reviews, click the Matcha Addiction label :) 

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A visit to Ramen Champion

After Asia: a dearth of smartphones in public!

There are hardly any smartphones on show in public in London! Compared with SE Asia, that is. 

Travel on any public transport in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, or Bangkok, and almost everyone will be on their phone, often with loud games or Malay/Hokkien/Thai dramas playing openly. 

Not so in London. Ride the Tube here, and there will be a few people quietly on their phones, a lot reading the free newspapers (Evening Standard, Metro) given out at stations, or listening to music on headphones. Almost zero noise apart from talking, and the vehicle itself.

Some of this is because there is high crime in London. Waving an expensive device is not wise, and some friends using their phones in public have literally had the gadgets snatched by fast-running thieves! Having said this, places like Kuala Lumpur are hardly famous for their low-crime. And yet it's smartphones a-gogo over there! 

Also, there is currently no signal on the London Underground (aka Tube) - you can register to access a poor one in stations only, but most people don't. A comprehensive 4G network is set to launch this year.  But, apart from occasional teens, people here rarely make phone noise where there is a signal either. 

It seems there are differences in culturally-acceptable sounds. In the UK, for example, loud - sometimes disturbing - racket around public drunkenness, sports events, or house-parties - is tolerated. Or at least people do it, and others are powerless to change it. These kinds of noise pollution simply don't occur in somewhere like Singapore. Anyone holding a loud house-party there would be very unpopular - the general sympathy lying with any neighbours having to endure it. And people would push to have it shut down.

But while this kind of racket happens a lot in London, talking in the cinema, for example, or a blaring device in a restaurant (both common in SE Asia!) are absolutely unacceptable. And people rarely do either. 

Anyway, my stop comes up soon. I'm writing this on an old, undesirable device, while quietly listening to my iPod on the way across London :)

After Asia, and the Algerian Coffee Stores

During this past year in APAC, I travelled a fair amount between Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. And each time I returned to Singapore (after perhaps only a couple of months' break) there would be some fairly key changes. Malls would have completed and launched; shiny new stations on the MRT lines opened; condominiums gone up; large new stores would have taken a foothold. 

I've come back to London after seven years, and not much has changed. There has been some change - which Londoners seem to perceive as quite radical! But compared with the pace of the places I lived in in Asia, it's kinda slow. 

There are reasons for this of course: London has been 'developed' for many centuries, the infrastructure in London's centre is antique, often architecturally protected, and difficult to change.  So it's not following a new masterplan like Singapore can. But there are also cultural differences, I think, in which UK people value things which are old. Perhaps over convenience or practicality. And there is a little suspicion of the new, which doesn't exist in APAC.

For tourists, I suppose this also gives the UK some of its appeal: it's historical with its own unique thing going on. 

For me, it has cut both ways. I have both struggled with the non-modernity of many systems here (tech, transport etc etc) and rather enjoyed the interesting old places with character. And here is one of them: the Algerian Coffee Stores shop, on Old Compton Street. 

This is not a tourist attraction, but just an old place offering decent service for people interested in coffee and making it. I went in to find a replacement washer for a friend's coffee percolator. And the chap there spent a good 20 minutes searching and trying items to best fit the pot. The cost of the washer: £1.10! (About SGD2/USD1.50) It wasn't about the money, but getting it right, so that good coffee could be made! And this is a kind of old-fashioned, quality, service which I like. 

Also, when you go in, you are greeted with an excellent whiff of coffee / tea / chocolate. And treated to the visuals of shelves packed with all kinds of exotic coffee beans, confections and apparatus.

I guess what, in modern business terms, might be lost in time (while people take care to look after customers) is perhaps compensated for by brand and uniqueness. And, I'd guess, repeat custom throughout generations? This shop has been handling coffee in London for over 130 years. I think you can buy an affordable espresso or latte in there now, too. 

Anyway, if you ARE a tourist in London, you could do worse than popping in to this place to purchase an interesting roast, or some good chocolate. :)

Link:  Algerian Coffee Stores



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Coffee making