Sunday 24 July 2016

Raclette!

I've said before that European cuisines rarely involve 'cooked-at-table' recipes - as compared to Asian cultures with their multi-various hotpots, sizzling platters etc. Well Raclette is one of the limited European exceptions. And it is getting quite fashionable worldwide now. Apparently.

In London, I always knew it as a French dish. And it is popular in France. But it is originally from Switzerland (which is next to France, and often speaks French too..) Raclette is the name of both the cheese, and the dish involving it. The name actually derives from the French verb 'to scrape off'. And the dish's origins are old, and rustic - it was originally a food eaten by farmers and shepherds.

The cheese is a sort of semi-squashy, smooth one (softer, Edam-ish in texture?) and it is usually produced in large rounds. The dish entails rustic foods with hot Raclette cheese freshly melted onto them. These foods are usually - boiled potatoes, charcuterie (various cold meats) with sides of cornichons (little pickles) and other bits. Ours came with quails eggs, a little mustard for flavouring.

The way it is served varies. The one I knew from the UK involved shaving the melts from a big, heated, half-round of Raclette cheese onto the ingredients. For this week's version, however, we had an oven at the table, and a couple of small 'trays with paddles'. You put sliced, cold Raclette, meats etc onto the trays and heat them in the grill. Then use the wooden paddle to scrape / pour the warmed items and liquid cheese over the potato. The top of the heater also acts as a kind of griddle for meats, but our French host suggested just putting the hot potato pan up there, and warming everything else underneath.

The aim of Raclette (the dish) is that it is a slow, social activity. It should be enjoyed with a dry white wine and relaxed, good, conversation, while dipping in to the food.Often large groups will share raclette for this very reason.

The verdict: Pretty tasty! Also rich, and filling (we shared Raclette for one between two and it was ample!) The cheese is best eaten when liquid and piping hot, as it cools it becomes a little stringy (like Mozzarella) but it is flavoursome. The cornichons add a tart spike where needed. And we were also lucky to have some really good quality meats in the charcuterie, including a delicious, fine, air-dried beef (Bresi?) But the overall feel for me (as a European) was simple, country-fare, possibly due to the boiled potato base.

Raclette is not the cheapest dish to have (outside of France/Switzerland, perhaps?) But it is definitely worth a try. Go with friends and a long afternoon or evening to relax in!







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